Bouncing precariously in a pick up truck driven by an adolescent who looks barely old enough to shave, let alone drive. I realized i was about to die... but then reasoned that he knew he would not get paid if I bounced out and got left somewhere on the track.

Held that thought like a prayer through every blind curve and bone jarring bump.

I haven't showered since i left Toronto on Sunday. I spent half of last night on a train (a sleeper! they pull the seats into beds! you just lie there and watch the world stream by), and the other half sitting at a platform drinking coffee - the thickest, strongest, sweetest in the world - and eating fresh pineapple out of a plastic bag.

I haven't really slept in three days. I am dehydrated and it's too hot to eat anything substantial. I am smelly. The pollution in Bangkok made me feel like I had smoked a pack of cigarettes in a day. I am caked with sweat and dirt.

I am in paradise.

10:39 a.m. - 2003-07-16